| You
can't judge a burger by its color
Since
E. coli-tainted hamburgers started making headlines in 1993,
almost all of us have absorbed the advice that a safe burger is
one with the pink cooked out of it, a nice brown-inthe- middle burger.
“For years we’ve cooked meat by color. Everybody thought
color was fine,” said Sandy McCurdy, UI extension food safety
specialist, “until somebody did some research.”
That research by the
USDA surprised almost everyone by showing that a pink burger can
be perfectly done and a brown one not done. Indeed, one out of every
four burgers studied by USDA researchers in 1998 turned brown in
the middle before reaching 160ºF, the temperature that ensures
all pathogens in the meat are dead and the meat is safe to eat.
Some patties looked done at temperatures as low as 135ºF!
Ways we
judge are unreliable
As it turns out, all the ways we tend to judge the doneness of ground
meat patties and thin cuts of meat—color, texture, cooking
time—are unreliable. The only sure way to know the meat is
cooked to 160ºF, and not overcooked to dry toughness, is to
take its temperature.
Very few of us bother,
however, with just 3 to 6 percent of households nationally using
the instant-read digital or dial thermometers that work in thin
cuts of meat such as chicken breasts, sausage patties, and pork
chops.
To get more of us to
use instant-read thermometers, McCurdy and colleagues at Washington
State University have developed an ambitious educational campaign
funded by a $374,000 competitive grant from the USDA. Their brochure,
video, recipe cards, and poster, as well as their curricula for
high school family and consumer science teachers and extension educators,
all tout the advantages of thermometer use. Currently, they are
sending the materials to home cooks in Idaho and Washington and
conducting surveys to find out whether their thermometer use increases.
“I think we have
taken on a difficult problem,” McCurdy admits. Focus group
participants in Idaho and Washington cited the “hassle”
of using the thermometers as a deterrent. “If they have to
wait 20 seconds for the temperature to register, that’s annoying.”
Help with
speed, reliability, better taste
To help consumers choose the quickest, most reliable instant-read
thermometers, McCurdy is measuring the accuracy and response time
of a wide range of models.
Her preliminary
findings are that some thermometers respond in as few as 8 seconds
while some take as long as 33 seconds. Among the best she’s
tested so far are several brands of dial thermometers (Acurite model
640W, Good Cook model 25111, and Norpro model 5979), but only one
brand of digital thermometer (Redi-Chek model ET-3), which has a
10- to 15-second response time. She plans to make her full findings
available to extension educators, and anyone else who requests them,
when her study wraps up in January or February. Contact her at smccurdy@uidaho.edu.
McCurdy says she uses
a thermometer all the time now, and not least because it makes cooking
a chicken breast so much easier. Before, “I’d always
be cutting in to see if it was done,” she said. Now, she can
tell exactly when her meat is ready, neither undercooked nor overcooked.
By taking meat off the heat in time, says McCurdy, you’re
not only keeping yourself safe, “You’re going to have
better-tasting, juicier meat.”
Burger
Flipping 101
What’s the quickest way to cook a burger to 160ºF throughout?
When WSU and UI researchers studied the matter recently, the double-sided,
clam-shell-style grill smoked the competition, cooking a burger
in just 2.7 minutes.
In pans or
single-sided grills, the secret to speedy and even cooking turned
out to be frequent turning. Burgers flipped every 30 seconds were
uniformly done in 6.6 minutes.
Burgers flipped
just once during cooking, in contrast, took a full 10.9 minutes.
End-point
temperatures for thin meats
Note: All bad bacteria die by 160ºF. The higher end-point temperatures
recommended for poultry have to do with palatability, not safety.
The USDA has
yet to study fish temperatures, so for salmon, and other fish, flaky
texture and opaque look remain the best gauge.
160ºF
Ground beef, lamb, veal, and pork
Pork
Ham
Game
meat
165ºF
Ground turkey and chicken
170ºF Chicken and turkey breasts
Using instant-read
thermometers for thin meats
Instant-read
dial thermometers are inserted 2 to 3 inches into the meat. Instant-read
digital thermometers are inserted at least 1/2 inch into the meat.
STEP
ONE
Insert the probe into the side of the meat, at least 2 to 3 inches
for dial thermometers and at least 1/2 inch for digital thermometers.
(You may need to pick up the meat with a spatula or tongs to take
its temperature.)
STEP
TWO
Wait 15 to 20 seconds for the temperature to stabilize.
STEP
THREE
Clean the thermometer between uses by rinsing it under hot running
water for 5 seconds and wiping it with a clean paper towel.
--Diane Noel
(photos by Kelly Weaver, UI Photo Services)
© 2003
University of Idaho, College of Agricultural and Life Sciences.
|